Chanthaburi
We have made it back to Thailand, not in my usual way, packing all my travel requirements the night before into what some friends would consider to be a bag suitable for a weekend away. Oh no no, I had to buy a hard shell suitcase and this time packing took 2 days of solving an intricate puzzle fitting paintings inside paintings with spaces so that no surfaces touched the still slightly wet oil paint. Squeezing oil paint into small travel tubes, choosing a selection of my favourite brushes finally narrowing it down from about 90 to 17 brushes and decanting Michael Harding oil paint medium into a rice vinegar bottle so as not to alarm customs officials who may see the flammable logo on the Michael Harding bottle. Our kitchen scales were not going to measure the weight of this huge bag I had to wait until we arrived at Heathrow Airport fingers crossed that the luggage scales said 32 kg's or less. Sadly no, a whopping 35.6 kg's. I had thought this might be the case so plan B was to skim off 5 Kg's into a waterproof duffel bag I had packed ontop.
One night in Bangkok then Glenn headed Northwest to the Mekong to run a motorbike ride and I headed Southeast to Chanthaburi where I had previously met Thaniphat, a retired Art Lecturer at the local University. As a complete aside having travelled through Bangkok numerous times in the last three decades I have finally found what I think is the best location and the best strip of accommodation in Bangkok so if you're keen for a hot tip just ask.
Usually when we travel we move around, this time I made the decision to stay in Chanthaburi to take my paintings into Thanipat's gallery to exhibit. You have seen many of these paintings already but I would say this is as finished as they will ever be, I just wish I'd had time to take professional photographs.
I spent the first three days in Chanthaburi wandering the streets whilst staying in a room with no windows in a hostel with three small dogs, two yappers, and very fat Chihuahua that couldn't yap if it tried.Cats sleeping in baskets, washing up bowls and on windowsills, clutter and rubbish piled upon clutter and rubbish but very kind owners and incredible rooftop views.The plan was to spend a month drawing and painting here.
In my head a romantic idea similar to setting up my easel under a shady tree in the Tuscan hills but with one unavoidable problem, the streets here are hot by 9am, dusty, busy with minimal shade to set up anything before you need to let a street cart past. The logistics combined with the chaotic insult to the senses... so many potential painting and drawing ideas I became completely overwhelmed.
My first instinct... what an idiot you are for thinking this could work, but don't beat yourself up about it, get out of the city just head to the islands, and relax., Koh Chang, Koh Mak, Koh Kood all within half a days journey ... rent a, seafront bungalow, white sand and Western tourists.
Thankfully the side of me that does not give up easily said, Deborah just wait, be patient and that's when it happened. The dogs now recognise me and have roll over every time they see me, I ignore the clutter and have moved into a room with a window. I am now a familiar face with people in my hood, the lemon soda lady, the afternoon rice soup man, lottery ticket seller, the morning rice pancake lady, the very old grandmother that sits in the same spot everyday giving me a beaming smile as I pass and my new best friends the coffee shop owners and their mum, Tun, Hook, Nat and Apple.
I have developed a daily routine, which is funny as I really don't like routines when I am at home but here routine brings about familiarity, this repetition helps me see more clearly what I want to paint or draw with quieter vantage points to set myself up. In fact repetition is useful in small ways, it leads to mastery, I climb a steep spiral staircase several times a day, starting at 6am for sunrise there is a broken step half way up and I now know that if I start with my left foot going up and right foot going down I avoid putting my foot through the whole in the wire mesh. Mastery avoids dangerous hazards!
I have been here nearly 2 weeks now and it feels like home away from home. I have learned that oil painting on the street in this heat is not enjoyable so I draw which takes me completely out of my comfort zone. I never draw surroundings mainly figures so this is a new experience. This feels a bit like showing my dirty washing but these are some of the drawings and paintings I'm working on.
Thats it for now, in less than two weeks we will be in New Zealand, it's been way too long and I cannot wait to see my Kiwi home, Kiwi friends and Whanau.